Toddler Clothing Patterns

Brienne’s Springtime Jumper

Hello fellow crocheters!

I made this jumper for my daughter Brienne back in August… I know what you are thinking, what took me so long to post the pattern?!?! I have been obsessed with this design since I made it but man, this is definitely my hardest design so far. So much math my brain hurt! But it’s FINALLY done and I can’t wait to share with all of you!

My daughter is a little peanut and is 3 years old but is modeling the 2T size. I used Paintbox yarns cotton dk for this project in dolphin blue. I loved how the color looks almost like denim! The yarn is pretty lightweight and will still be great to wear during hot summer months without getting too sweaty. I also think this would be adorable with a long sleeve top underneath, tights, and some little boots! Oh my gosh I can’t handle the cuteness!

This dress is a great start for an advanced beginner since we don’t need to make a yoke or anything. The bodice is pretty quick to make and then the skirt is a repetitive stitch pattern so you can just get into the groove and keep going! I’m also a sucker for shell stitch borders, such a cute detail!

The straps are made just using single crochets and then attach some buttons and you are done!

I am using the CYC measurements for this pattern. Please check measurements to ensure proper sizing.

To support me and get an ad free pdf version of this pattern please visit my etsy shop! etsy.berryhookeddesigns.com

Pattern sizes:

6/12 month, 12/18 month, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5/6, 7/8, and 9/10

*Model is wearing size 2T*

Materials:

  • Size G hook
  • Size H hook
  • DK cotton yarn: I used paintbox cotton dk from lovecrafts.com in Dolphin Blue for blue dress and blush pink for pink dress click here for the link
  • Tapestry Needle to hide threads
  • Stitch markers
  • 4 Buttons that are 1 ¼ inch across. Mine are from ButtonsCraft on Etsy

Gauge:

H hook 14 dc x 8 rows= 4” x 4” square

Sizing:

Waist is finished measurement, Length is to the knee.

6/12month: 370yds

  • Waist: 18.5”
  • Length: 14.6”

12/18month: 420yds

  • Waist: 19.5”
  • Length: 15.8”

2T: 525yds

  • Waist: 20.5”
  • Length: 18”

3T: 575yds

  • Waist: 21”
  • Length: 18.5”

4T: 650yds

  • Waist: 22”
  • Length: 20.5”

5/6: 850yds

  • Waist: 24”
  • Length: 23”

7/8: 1,080yds

  • Waist: 27”
  • Length: 26”

9/10: 1,300yds

  • Waist: 29”
  • Length: 28”

Level

Advanced beginner

Stitches

Stitches are written in standard American terms.

ss- slip stitch

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

st(s)- stitch/stitches

dc- double crochet

hdc- half double crochet

Sc2tog- single crochet two together

Sc3tog- single crochet three together

Notes:

  • We will make the dress by starting at the top of the bodice and working our way down to the skirt with no breaking of the yarn. After we will add the straps and the pockets, then crochet a SC border along the top of the skirt and bodice to clean up the edges.
  • The pattern is written containing several sizes. Numbers will be written as follows: 6/12month (12/18month, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10).
  • Final stitch counts are at the end of the row to keep track of how many stitches should be in each row. Stitch counts do include chains.
  • Make sure to follow the correct number for the size you are crocheting! I suggest printing out the pattern then highlighting which numbers you need.
  • This dress is easy to customize size! You can follow the width and the length of different sizes to make a better fitting dress. For example: If the child you are making the dress for is thinner but quite tall, use the waist measurement size but follow the length count so the dress will be long enough for them.

Bodice stitch breakdown:

We will be repeating this stitch sequence: *sc, ch 1 and skip next stitch*

Starting in row 6 , the sc will be over the ch from the previous row and into the sc from two rows below, while the next ch will be skipping the sc from the previous row.

After completing the bodice, do not cut off yarn. We will be adding a ch and connecting it to the other side to make a circle.

Skirt stitch explanation:

You will be *sc and dc in the same st, then skipping the next st* following this pattern all the way down. There will be no seams, so when the row is completed you will put the sc and dc in the first sc from the row and skipping the dc.Use a stitch marker on the top of the 1st stitch of each row so you don’t lose track of rows.

Bodice

With H hook, start by chaining 23 (25, 27, 27, 29, 31, 35, 37).

Row 1: skip 1st chain then sc in next chain. Sc in each chain across, 22 (24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36). Ch 1. Turn.

Row 2: Sc in each stitch across, Ch 1, Turn.

Row 3: Sc in next two stitches, ch 4 and skip 4 st, sc will be in the 5th st from last sc, Sc in the next 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24) st. Ch 4 and skip 4 st, sc in last 2 st, Ch 1, Turn.

Row 4: Sc in each stitch across, including the two sets of 4 chains, this will make the holes for buttons, ch 1, turn. 22(24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36)

Row 5: *Sc, ch 1, skip st*. Repeat ** across the row until last 2 st, 1 sc in each of the last 2 st, ch 1, turn. 22 (24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36)

Row 6: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 22 (24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36)

Rows 7-10: Repeat row 6.

Row 11: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 6 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) times, In the next stitch, make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across until the last 2 sts, sc in the 2 last sts, ch 1, turn. 24 (26, 28, 28, 30, 32, 36, 38).

Row 12: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 24 (26, 28, 28, 30, 32, 36, 38)

Rows 13-17: Repeat row 12.

Row 18: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) times, in the next stitch, make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *sc, ch 1, skip st* repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40)

Row 19: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40)

Rows 20-24: Repeat row 19.

Row 25: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 8) times, in the next stitch, make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42)

Rows 26: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sets, sc in the last 2 ads, ch 1, turn. 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42)

Rows 27-31: repeat row 26

Row 32: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10) times, in the next stitch, make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 30 (32, 34, 34, 36, 38, 42, 44)

Follow the rest of the bodice with the size you are making below:

6-12 month:

Rows 33-34: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (30 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

12-18 month:

Rows 33- 36: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (32 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

2T:

Rows 33- 38: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (34 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

3T:

Rows 33- 40:  *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (34 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

4T:

Rows: 33- 42: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (36 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

Sizes 5/6, 7/8, 9/10– through row 39 the stitch count will only include these 3 sizes. Ex: 5/6 (7/8, 9/10)

Row 33-38: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 38 (42, 44)

Row 39: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 8(10, 11) times, in the next stitch make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *sc 1, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. 40 (44, 46)

Size 5/6:

Row 40-44: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (40 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

Size 7/8:

Row 40- 46: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (44 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

Size 9/10:

Rows 40-43: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (46 sts)

Row 44: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat 12 times, in the next stitch, make an increase by sc, ch 1, sc in the same stitch, *sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat across the row until the last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (48 sts)

Rows 45-48: *Sc, ch 1, skip st* Repeat ** across the row until last 2 sts, sc in the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (48 total sts) Continue on to the skirt.

Skirt

Change to the G hook, ch 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 62, 72, 76) ss the chain to the other side of the bodice to make a circle, be careful not to twist the chain.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc along the bottom of the bodice, sc in each of the sc and over the ch and into the sc below like before, then into the chains of the skirt, ss into the first stitch to complete the circle. 80 (84, 88, 90, 94, 102, 116, 124)

Rows 2-3: Ch 1, sc around, ss to the first st. 80 (84, 88, 90, 94, 102, 116, 124)

Row 4: Ch 1, ss in each stitch around, careful not to crochet too tightly, ss to the first st. 80 (84, 88, 90, 94, 102, 116, 124)

Row 5: Ch 1, *sc in first stitch, then 2 sc in the next* Repeat ** across. End with 1 sc in the last stitch, ss to first stitch. 119 (125, 131, 135, 141, 153, 173, 185)

Row 6: Ch 1, *sc and dc in the same stitch then skip the next stitch* Repeat ** All the way around. We will be crocheting in the round from now on, so there is no chain for ss to connect the rows. 119 (125, 131, 135, 141, 153, 173, 185)

Row 7: *Sc and dc in the first sc from the previous row then skip the next stitch* Repeat ** across the row, the sc,dc cluster should be on the top of the sc each time.

6-12 month:

Rows 8-33: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

12-18 month:

Rows 8- 35: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

2T:

Rows 8- 42: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

3T:

Rows 8-45: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

4T:

Rows 8- 49: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

5/6:

Rows 8- 56: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

7/8:

Rows 8-66: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

9/10:

Rows 8- 72: Repeat Row 7. Ss to close off the last row to the stitch marker. Continue to shell border.

Shell Border

Don’t break yarn from bottom of the skirt. *Ch 2 and 2 hdc in the same stitch. Skip 1 st and ss in the next* Repeat ** All the way around the bottom of the skirt. The last one you will have to skip 2 st and ss into the bottom of the first shell. Break yarn and hide threads.

Pockets– Make two with G hook

Small (for 6-12m & 12-18m)

Ch 10.

Row 1: Skip 2 ch, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook, Hdc in each stitch across (8) ch 2, turn.

Row 2: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (10) ch 2, turn.

Row 3: hdc in each stitch across. (10) ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (12) ch 2, turn

Row 5: hdc in each stitch across. (12) ch 2, turn.

Row 6: Repeat row 5

Row 7: Ss in each stitch across, not too tightly. (12) ch 2, turn.

Row 8: Hdc in the 2 loops closest to you, so the front two loops get pushed forward. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 9-10: Repeat row 5

Turn and sc along the outside of the pocket. Finish off and leave a long tail to sew on pockets.

Medium (for 2T, 3T, and 4T)

Ch 12.

Row 1: Skip 2 ch, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook, Hdc in each stitch across (10) ch 2, turn

Row 2: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (12) ch 2, turn.

Row 3: hdc in each stitch across. (12) ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (14) ch 2, turn

Row 5: hdc in each stitch across. (14) ch 2, turn.

Row 6-8: Repeat row 5

Row 9: Ss in each stitch across, not too tightly. (14) ch 2, turn.

Row 10: Hdc in the 2 loops closest to you, so the front two loops get pushed forward. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 11-12: Repeat row 5

Turn and sc along the outside of the pocket. Finish off and leave a long tail to sew on pockets.

Large (for 5/6, 7/8, and 9/10)

Ch 14.

Row 1: Skip 2 ch, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook, Hdc in each stitch across (12) ch 2, turn

Row 2: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (14) ch 2, turn.

Row 3: hdc in each stitch across. (14) ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc across until the last stitch, 2 hdc in the last stitch. (16) ch 2, turn

Row 5: hdc in each stitch across. (16) ch 2, turn.

Row 6-10: Repeat row 5

Row 11: Ss in each stitch across, not too tightly. (14) ch 2, turn.

Row 12: Hdc in the 2 loops closest to you, so the front two loops get pushed forward. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 13-15: Repeat row 5

Turn and sc along the outside of the pocket. Finish off and leave a long tail to sew on pockets.

Position pockets onto your skirt and pin where desired. I did mine at a slight angle. Sew the pockets onto your dress but be careful not to sew up the top so they can be used!

Straps:

We will be going to the top of the chain from when we started the skirt. Count in 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 36, 38) stitches and mark with stitch marker, then mark the next stitch on the left. Mark the 6th stitch to the right of the right stitch marker, and mark the 6th stitch to the left of the left stitch marker.

Right strap:

Row 1: Start on the most right stitch marker, join and sc 6 across to the next stitch marker. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc across in each stitch. Ch 1, turn. (6 st)

Repeat row 2 for the needed length of the size you are making.

6-12 month straps will be a total of 52 rows. Cut and finish off.

12-18 month straps will be 56 rows. Cut and finish off.

2T straps will be 60 rows. Cut and finish off.

3T straps are 63 rows. Cut and finish off, move onto sewing buttons.

4T straps are 65 rows. Cut and finish off.

5/6 straps are 68 rows. Cut and finish off.

7/8 straps are 72 rows. Cut and finish off.

9/10 straps are 75 rows. Cut and finish off.

Left strap:

Row 1: Using the other set of stitch markers, start on the right one and join yarn. Sc 6 across, ch1, turn.

Row 2: Sc 6 across, ch 1, turn.

Complete the same number of straps as the right side, do not break yarn.

  • For straps with an even number of rows, sc across the top and put 2 sc in the last to make a corner before continuing.
  •  For straps with an odd number of rows, sc in the same st.

Sc down the left side of the strap. Each side of the straps should have 38(40, 44, 46, 48, 50, 53, 55) sc to keep everything even and stretching out to a minimum. Sc2tog at the bottom of each strap, the sc along the top of the skirt.

Sc2tog at the bottom of the bodice, then sc 23(25, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 34) on each side of the bodice. Sc 2 on the corners and sc along the top. Go down the other side of the bodice and sc2tog at the bottom.

Sc across the top of the skirt, sc2tog at the bottom of the right strap and crochet up the side of the strap using the same amount of stitches from the left strap. Sc 2 at the corner and go around the right strap. Between the left and the right strap, sc3tog then go up the left strap.

  • Even row straps- ss into the right st of the top of the strap and finish off.
  • Odd row straps- 2 sc in top of right side of the strap and sc across, then ss to the turning sc we started with and finish off.

Hide threads.

Buttons

Sew on buttons with matching thread. Put one on the end of each strap, and another above the bottom one with a row of sc in between to give even spacing.

All done! Hope you love and enjoyed making this dress!

This pattern is an original pattern by Jessica Koontz of Berry Hooked. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me. Jessica Koontz of Berry Hooked and provide a link to my blog http://www.berryhooked.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for all your understanding!

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